It takes just one day for unforeseen events to radically alter the fate of an entire continent. And just as swiftly, the history of wine and viticulture in what would become Portugal can be reshaped. This is precisely what happened on the last day of the year 406 AD.
By sheer chance, the Huns’ westward invasion was pushing Germanic tribes further toward southern Europe. By sheer chance, that year’s brutal winter had led to famine following disastrous harvests. By sheer chance, the Roman Empire was undergoing severe internal turmoil. By sheer chance, the Empire’s northern border had been left undefended. And by sheer chance, the frigid temperatures had frozen the mighty Rhine River.
The frozen Rhine was the final straw. Desperate from hunger and driven forward by the Huns, Germanic tribes seized the opportunity to cross the river—previously a natural border between Roman Gaul and the barbarian lands—exploiting the absence of Roman legions.
This event marked the beginning of the end for the seemingly eternal Roman Empire and ushered in the Dark Ages across Europe. One by one, Roman provinces succumbed to barbarian incursions. Even the grand city of Rome itself would not escape looting and destruction.
Among the tribes that crossed the Rhine on that fateful day were the Suebi. A nomadic and hunting people, the Suebi had never settled long enough to form a kingdom. Yet, as they wandered southward, they reached the Roman city of Bracara Augusta (modern-day Braga) and, for the first time, established a kingdom of their own.
Various Mediterranean civilizations had already left an indelible mark on Portuguese viticulture and winemaking. However, the contributions of Germanic peoples like the Suebi and Visigoths remain shrouded in mystery and largely forgotten.
Arriving on the Iberian Peninsula in the 5th century, these so-called ‘barbarians’ inherited a vast, well-established viticultural tradition. But what did the Germanic tribes do with such a precious legacy?
Originating from the banks of the Elbe River, the Suebi established their kingdom in Gallaecia in 411 AD. This Roman province encompassed what is now Galicia and northern Portugal. While their presence is often overshadowed by that of the Romans and Visigoths, the Suebi played a crucial role in the transition from Late Antiquity to the Early Middle Ages in Iberia.
Essentially, Suebi-controlled Gallaecia inherited the Roman viticultural tradition. The Romans had significantly expanded vine cultivation and introduced advanced winemaking techniques. However, historical records provide scant information on what happened to viticulture after the fall of secular Roman authority.
Despite the lack of direct sources, it is plausible that the Suebi brought with them some agricultural practices and knowledge from their homeland. It is even likely that they continued to produce wine, adapting Roman techniques to suit their own needs and preferences.
However, one certainty remains: the Suebi’s conversion to Christianity profoundly influenced their relationship with wine. As it does today, wine played a central role in Christian rituals, symbolizing the blood of Christ.
The Visigoths unified power in Iberia after absorbing the Suebi kingdom in 585 AD. More assertive rulers than their predecessors, the Visigoths left behind an invaluable legal record, including the famous Visigothic Code from the 7th century.
This legal code contains specific laws regulating viticulture and winemaking, underscoring their economic and social significance. One such law required that for every vine uprooted, a new one had to be planted in its place.
The Visigoths also actively promoted wine consumption as part of the daily diet. This shift was formalized by King Ervig’s Edictum de Fructis Relaxatis in 683 AD, which sought to redefine wine not merely as a source of pleasure but as a dietary staple.
Archaeologists have uncovered remnants of Visigothic-era presses, wine cellars, and amphorae, offering tangible proof of continued wine production during this obscure and enigmatic period.
In Portugal, the ruins of São Cucufate in Vidigueira (pictured above) are one site where traces of Visigothic viticulture may be found. However, such findings remain relatively rare compared to the extensive archaeological evidence from Roman and later Islamic periods.
Before reaching Iberia, the Visigoths spent nearly a century in the region now known as Bordeaux, France. At the time, this area—then called Aquitania Secunda—already boasted vast vineyards of Roman origin. It is plausible that the Visigoths introduced new grape varieties from Bordeaux to what is now Portugal.
Visigothic texts also reference different types of wines, including full-bodied white wines made from the Aminea grape and sweet wines from the Apiana variety.
As expected, Visigothic winemaking techniques were largely rooted in earlier Roman practices. These included fermenting wine in clay amphorae and aging it in oak barrels. However, it is possible that the Visigoths introduced certain adaptations of their own.
The viticultural culture of the Germanic peoples seems to have been characterized more by continuity than by innovation. Nevertheless, their emphasis on wine as an integral part of both religious and daily life may have strengthened the long-term establishment of viticulture in Portugal.
Key elements of their legacy include the preservation of Roman winemaking traditions, legal regulation of viticulture, broader access to wine consumption, and lasting cultural influences.
One intriguing possibility is that this legacy is still visible in the very way land is organized for agriculture. In fact, some scholars argue that the patchwork of smallholdings typical in northern Portugal may trace its origins to the Germanic settlement patterns established by the Suebi. This stands in contrast to the vast latifundia estates of southern Portugal, which date back to Roman and medieval land distribution systems.
However, as with much of what surrounds these ancient peoples, the truth remains shrouded in obscurity.