‍

By the time Rome had crushed its bitter Carthaginian rivals in the south of the Iberian Peninsula, it still had not subdued the northern territories. The reason? A single name: Viriatus.

A brilliant military strategist and leader of the Lusitanians, Viriatus repeatedly outmaneuvered Roman legions for nearly a decade. He was not alone—Celts, Celtiberians, and other indigenous peoples joined him in a desperate fight for freedom and survival. But treachery, not battle, would seal his fate in 139 BC.

Unable to defeat him in open combat, the Roman general Servilius Caepio bribed three of Viriatus' closest companions to assassinate him in his sleep. The Lusitanian leader was slain with multiple thrusts to the throat. Yet when the traitors sought their promised reward, they were swiftly executed. “Rome does not pay traitors,” the general declared.

But Rome would pay dearly—this time, not in coin, but in the form of an enduring legacy: the profound transformation of Iberian winemaking.

‍

‍

The Expansion of Roman Viticulture in Portugal

Wherever the Romans settled, vineyards soon followed. Many of their new colonies were established by retired legionnaires, who brought with them Rome’s advanced viticultural knowledge. As they marched northward, Roman winegrowing spread from the sun-drenched plains of Alentejo to the rugged slopes of the Douro Valley.

By the time the Suebi and Visigoths arrived centuries later, vast and productive vineyards were already thriving—including, quite possibly, those in what is now the Dão wine region.

This expansion was driven by Rome’s experimental approach to agriculture. Unlike earlier civilizations, which planted vines haphazardly, the Romans were among the first to select grape varieties based on the soil and climate of a given location. By blending native and imported vines, they created a diversity that still defines Portuguese winemaking today.

‍

‍

Roman Innovations in Iberian Viticulture

Long before the Romans arrived, the Celts and Lusitanians—likely influenced by Phoenician and Greek traders—had developed rudimentary winemaking methods. But Rome refined these traditions, bringing a systematic approach to viticulture.

Among their innovations was the latada vine training system, which maximized sun exposure and improved airflow around the vines (the latada is a pergola where grapevines grow). Their meticulous pruning techniques ensured that only the healthiest grapes were used for winemaking—an approach still echoed today by high-end Portuguese producers like Quinta da Alameda.

To enhance vine resilience, the Romans also pioneered grafting techniques, joining select grape varieties onto robust rootstocks better suited to resist disease. This early experimentation laid the foundation for many of the carefully selected vine clones still used in Portugal.

‍

‍

The Roman Art of Winemaking in Today's Portugal

While many Iberian tribes relied on crude pressing methods, the Romans introduced stone platforms and wooden beam presses, allowing for more efficient juice extraction. However, they too learned from the so-called "barbarians"—notably, the Celtic practice of using wooden barrels for storage and transport.

At first, barrels were a purely practical innovation for transporting wine. But to their surprise, the Romans discovered that the wood subtly enhanced the wine’s aroma and aging potential, an insight that would later shape the development of barrel-aged wines.

Before barrels became widespread, however, the Romans primarily used dolia—large clay vessels in which they fermented and stored their wines. In Portugal, these vessels are known as talhas, and they remain one of the most tangible and enduring symbols of Rome’s winemaking heritage.

Even today, in Alentejo, winemakers use talhas in a practice that has changed little in over 2.000 years. Because clay is porous, it allowed too much oxygen to interact with the wine, so the Romans lined the interior of these vessels with pez—a natural resin that prevented excessive oxidation.

The Romans also understood the importance of temperature control during fermentation. To prevent wines from overheating, they often buried their dolia underground—an early precursor to modern temperature-controlled winemaking.

Ancient writings even mention Roman sanitation practices, as well as an early form of destemming, which helped reduce bitter tannins and herbal notes—techniques that continue to influence winemaking today.

‍

‍

The Socioeconomic Impact of Roman Viticulture

Under Roman rule, wine was no longer a luxury reserved for the elite—it became an everyday staple, accessible to all social classes. From slaves to aristocrats, and whether man or woman, everyone could partake in the pleasures of wine.

At the same time, Rome’s engineering marvels—bridges, roads, and aqueducts— paved the way to the flourishing of commerce. Iberian wines were exported across the Mediterranean, reaching as far as Gaul and Britannia.

Though the Romans came to Iberia in search of salt, gold, silver, copper, horses, and slaves, they also discovered something of equal value: great wine. It was consumed daily, prescribed as medicine, and used in religious rituals honoring Bacchus.

By some estimates, the average Roman citizen drank the equivalent of a modern bottle of wine per day. This was partly due to necessity—wine was often safer to drink than the contaminated water of Rome’s bustling urban centers. Interestingly, wine also served as a form of payment —but only for legionnaires and not, of course, for traitors.