The story begins in the shadow of a majestic volcano in the Caucasus—Mount Ararat, no less. According to the Bible, this is where Noah's Ark came to rest after the great Flood. When the rains subsided, Noah released a dove to see if the earth was dry and habitable. The dove returned with a green olive branch, a sign of life’s resurgence through divine will.
Today, the dove remains a universal symbol of peace. But had it returned with a lush vine leaf instead, it would have been just as fitting. After all, this region of volcanic and biblical mountains is also the birthplace of the vine (Vitis vinifera), the plant that gives us grapes—and wine.
According to Ian Tattersall and colleagues, not far from Mount Ararat lies some of the earliest archaeological evidence of systematic winemaking. Travel a little south, to where the dry, brown landscape gives way to a small, verdant patch split by the Arpa River. Here, you’ll find the village of Areni, which lends its name to one of Armenia’s most renowned grape varieties.
The intimate bond between Areni and wine dates back to the forgotten kingdom of Urartu, an Iron Age civilization that flourished in this region 800 years before Christ. Urartu was famed for exporting wine to ancient Assyria, with vast facilities capable of storing thousands of liters of the precious nectar. Four centuries later, even the Greek philosopher Xenophon marveled at the abundance of wine in the region.
Yet Areni’s connection to wine predates these historical accounts. Archaeological discoveries in a nearby cave unearthed evidence of winemaking that stretches back thousands of years, revealing a viticultural lineage that predates even written language.
Areni Cave is an archaeological marvel. First explored when Armenia was still part of the Soviet Union, its depths have revealed layers of human activity spanning hundreds of thousands of years.
Early finds included the world’s oldest leather shoe, dating back 5,500 years, and the eerily preserved skull of a female red-haired adolescent, complete with brain matter still intact after 6,000 years. These remarkable discoveries attest to the cave’s unique microclimate, capable of preserving organic material indefinitely—including evidence of systematic grape fermentation.
In 2007, archaeologists uncovered a slanted clay basin leading to a ceramic vessel embedded in the ground. At first, its purpose was unclear. But nearby, they found grape seeds, stems, and jars containing traces of malvidin—a natural pigment responsible for the color of red wine—that had survived over 6,000 years.
It soon became evident that this was a primitive winery. Grapes were crushed in the basin, their juice flowing naturally into the fermentation jar below. Once fermented, the liquid was transferred to vessels for aging in the cave’s dry, dark, and stable environment. These findings constitute the oldest physical evidence of systematic winemaking from Vitis vinifera.
While earlier discoveries, such as a jar in Iran containing tartaric acid and tree resin (reminiscent of today's retsina wine), hinted at early winemaking, they lacked the clear intent and organized production evident in Areni. Similarly, recent traces of wine found over gold artifacts in Bulgaria, dating back 8,000 years, suggest ritualistic use but not structured vinification. Areni, on the other hand, confirms a deliberate and sophisticated approach, marking the transition from nomadic lifestyles to settled Neolithic agricultural societies.
This transition wasn’t merely a lifestyle change—it laid the foundation for an explosion of technology and the rise of complex, structured civilizations, all accompanied by wine.
The Neolithic revolution brought the domestication of plants and animals, and the vine was among the first plants to be cultivated. This domestication likely began in the South Caucasus, a region where viticulture has deep roots in the cultural fabric. But what made the vine so attractive to early agricultural societies?
In science, a "Goldilocks" phenomenon refers to the perfect alignment of conditions that produce an extraordinary result. Wine owes its very existence to the "Goldilocks" conditions of grapes, as evident in the following:
- Perfect Sugar Levels: Grapes naturally contain just the right amount of sugar for spontaneous fermentation. This ideal concentration produces a beverage with alcohol levels perfect for preservation and safe consumption, unlike most other fruits.
- Natural Yeasts: The skins of grapes are coated with wild yeasts, enabling natural fermentation—a process further enhanced by self-inoculation.
- Balanced Acidity: Grapes have an ideal acidity that ensures freshness and prevents the wine from being overly sweet or insipid. Most other fruits lack this balance.
- Tannins: Grapes contain tannins, which contribute to the wine’s texture, structure, aging potential, and complexity—characteristics unmatched by other fruits.
- Self-Pollinating Vines: Grapevines are hermaphroditic, simplifying cultivation compared to other fruit-bearing plants.
- Adaptability: Vines thrive in a wide range of soils and climates, resist many pathogens, and are genetically versatile, enabling the development of diverse grape varieties suited to different terroirs. These attributes allow grapes to produce wines as varied as the robust wines of Barossa and the graceful expressions of Dão—distinct yet unified in character.
From early history to the present, wine has been viewed as a gift from the divine. Its "Goldilocks" attributes create a bridge between the physical and the spiritual, exemplified in the ritualistic role wine has played across millennia.
The perfect balance of alcohol in wine has long been associated with altered states of consciousness, fostering a connection to the sacred. This tradition continues today, from sacramental wines used in Christian liturgies to celebratory toasts for health, happiness, and prosperity.
Thus, wine’s origin is both physical and metaphysical—a blend of the tangible and the divine. Had Noah himself sought proof of life, he might well have returned to the Ark not with an olive branch, but with a lush vine, bearing the promise of this extraordinary plant and its fruit.