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The year was 1871. In a volatile and lagging Portugal, the devastation of phylloxera had just reached the country, creeping in from the Douro’s steep slopes. At the same time, the young, soon-to-be-famous authors Queiroz and Ortigão released the first edition of As Farpas, a biting critique of the politics and society of the time.

Meanwhile, much further north, a prosperous yet shadowy England welcomed Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking-Glass, a literary masterpiece destined for universal acclaim.

Among its memorable characters was the Red Queen, the chess-playing sovereign of Wonderland. Were Carroll not British, one might imagine that the fiery spirit of the Red Queen was inspired by another red monarch: Touriga Nacional, Portugal’s most esteemed red grape variety.

Like Carroll’s regal figure, Touriga Nacional exudes an inherent authority that commands attention on the chessboard of viticulture—a position well-earned for countless reasons.

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Touriga Nacional: A Grape of Strength and Charisma

In Carroll’s novel, the demanding Red Queen is a paradoxical figure, embodying both intensity and grace. Similarly, Touriga Nacional is a grape of contrasts: powerful yet refined, capable of producing wines with profound, commanding structure balanced by a pedestal of aromatic elegance.

It reigns over the vineyard with noble poise, requiring meticulous care and conditions befitting its stature. Carroll’s famous line, “It takes all the running you can do to stay in the same place,” aptly captures the dynamic between winemakers and this exacting grape. Unlocking its full potential is no small feat, requiring mastery over challenges such as its vigorous foliage, low yields, and demanding vineyard management.

Yet, Touriga Nacional boasts natural resistance to fungal diseases like botrytis. While it requires adequate rainfall, it is resilient in the face of prolonged dry spells. When nurtured with care, this grape rewards effort with wines of remarkable longevity, concentration, and depth.

Even visually, the parallel with the Red Queen persists. Draped in a scarlet splendour, the Queen finds her reflection in Touriga Nacional’s deep ruby hues. Its bouquet is equally regal, offering a layered profile—floral yet assertive, seductive yet commanding. On the palate, its tannins provide structure and unforgettable finishes, as bold as the Red Queen’s proclamations.

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Northern Portugal: The Origins of Touriga Nacional

Both the Dão and Douro regions lay claim to the birthplace of Touriga Nacional. However, its greatest genetic diversity in the Dão suggests its origins lie in this mountainous region of Beira Alta, perhaps in the small village of Tourigo.

Historical records trace its cultivation back to at least the late 18th century. By the 19th century, it dominated Dão’s vineyards, producing the majority of the region’s wines. However, this golden era was interrupted by the phylloxera epidemic. After the crisis, Touriga Nacional was deemed unviable due to its low productivity and was replaced by more prolific varieties.

By the early 20th century, the grape was on the brink of extinction—a fate narrowly avoided thanks to its genetic legacy in Touriga Franca. Fortunately, Douro producers rediscovered its full potential, restoring it to its rightful throne in Portuguese winemaking.

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Sensory Profile: A Harmonious Symphony of Contrasts

While many grapes excel in a single characteristic—acidity, aromatics, or structure—Touriga Nacional unites these elements in rare harmony. Wines crafted from this variety are complex, with vibrant acidity, intense aromatics, and excellent aging potential.

Though not a teinturier grape, it yields wines of extraordinary depth, owing to its thick, blue-black skins rich in anthocyanins. These compounds lend its young wines a nearly opaque colour, with purple rims betraying its identity during blind tastings. Its sophisticated tannins are both flavourful and finely textured, while its small berries contribute to concentrated flavours and impressive extraction.

The grape’s natural acidity ensures freshness and balance, wrapped in an evocative aromatic profile of violets, bergamot, raspberries, and blackcurrants. This layered bouquet stems from high levels of free terpenes—compounds more typical of white varieties but stunningly abundant in Touriga Nacional. The result is a symphony of florals, fruit, and spices that captivates the senses.

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A Versatile Grape Across Styles and Regions

From robust reds and elegant rosés to the finest vintage Ports and varietal expressions, Touriga Nacional takes centre stage in an array of styles. Its adaptability shines in oak aging, where it benefits from slow oxidative development and the toasty nuances of new wood. Notes of cedar often complement the grape’s inherent spiciness, while its late-blooming aromatic complexity can take years to fully unfurl, particularly in bottle-aged wines.

In the Dão, Touriga Nacional yields some of Portugal’s finest reds, such as those from Quinta da Alameda. These wines reflect their terroir through a graceful balance of freshness, texture, and authenticity, enhanced by the region’s altitude and rainfall.

Compared to the Douro, where Touriga Nacional produces more opulent and concentrated wines, the Dão offers a lighter, floral expression with slightly higher acidity. In both regions, the grape often finds harmony alongside varieties like Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro.

But Touriga Nacional’s influence extends far beyond Portugal, thriving in places like Australia, California, and South Africa. Still, its crowning international moment came in 2019 when Bordeaux—the bastion of French winemaking—officially approved it as a permitted variety.

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Food Pairings: The Red Queen’s Court

Touriga Nacional’s bold, energetic palate calls for dishes that match its exuberance. Rich meats—grilled, stewed, or roasted beef, lamb, and game such as venison or wild boar—provide the perfect counterbalance to its tannins. Duck dishes are also excellent companions.

Avoid green vegetables, spicy dishes, and overly acidic foods, as these can clash with its delicate floral notes. However, strongly flavoured or smoked cheeses, such as Serra da Estrela or blue cheeses paired with walnuts, make delightful exceptions.

For dessert, consider dark chocolate, coffee-based treats, or dried fruits. Decant older vintages to allow their nuanced flavours to fully unfold.

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Touriga Nacional: A Legacy for the Future

If Portugal once had a Perfect Prince in King João II, today it boasts a Red Queen whose perfection seems almost mythical. Modern clones have mitigated the low yields that once hindered the grape, proving that quality is priceless compared to quantity.

Producers like Quinta da Alameda are committed to preserving the Dão’s ancestral values, with Touriga Nacional reigning supreme among noble varieties. A grape prepared for the future, its resilience to climate change has even earned it the reverence of the French.

The story of Portuguese winemaking is, and always will be, written in the vivid crimson of Touriga Nacional. Its destiny is inextricably linked to Portugal’s viticultural legacy. Long live the Queen!