‘Terroir’ is a term praised by winemakers and revered by wine connoisseurs. Yet, the concept of ‘terroir’ remains somewhat elusive to most people.
Although it shares a root with the French word for ‘soil’, the term ‘terroir’ doesn’t refer solely to the soil beneath the vines. Its meaning is far deeper — and more fascinating.
In fact, terroir should be seen as a soul or living force that infuses fine wines with their distinctive character.
Through terroir, each drop of these wines becomes a story of place, time, and tradition.
Picture yourself walking through a vineyard, like our own above, at dawn in the fall.
The air is crisp and biting, but soon the warmth of the sun will bathe the gentle slope.
Beneath your feet, the moist but infertile soil still shows faint footprints after the first rains of the season.
Granite and well-drained, this soil bears little trace of these autumn showers.
Yet the grass is now far greener after a scorching summer.
After months of absence, small yellow flowers are beginning to emerge here and there.
With the flowers, the hum of bees and the song of wintering birds return.
As you look toward the mountains that define the jagged horizon, you notice the fog transforming into dark, heavy clouds: the sun retreats, and it seems rain is coming once more.
But no worries—the old cellar is only a few steps away, offering shelter among the venerable oak barrels.
Poetic or not, these natural and cultural elements are far more than a picturesque backdrop.
In reality, they are active participants in the creation of wine.
Each element, no matter how small, leaves its signature on the flavour, aromas, texture, and other characteristics of the wines born at a particular time and place.
This is, in essence, how terroir expresses itself.
Terroir has its roots in ancient winemaking traditions, particularly those established in medieval Burgundy by Benedictine and Cistercian monks.
Patient and meticulous, these monks observed the distinct impact that different parcels of land had on the wines produced.
Though separated by just ten or twenty steps, one parcel could produce the abbey’s best wine, while another could yield the worst.
These observations laid the foundation for our modern understanding of how the physical environment shapes wine.
Today, we also know that geography and environment alone are not enough to explain the uniqueness of the most remarkable wines: in fact, terroir is the translation of nature’s influence intertwined with human culture and craftsmanship.
In the Dão region, for instance, terroir takes on a rich significance due to the noble and diverse native grape varieties — Encruzado for whites and Touriga Nacional for reds being the most notable cases.
Enclosed by a natural amphitheatre of mountains, this region’s unique microclimate provides the vines with an exceptional environment to thrive.
Its harsh soils, high altitudes, and dramatic daily temperature swings tend to produce wines of remarkable elegance, balance, complexity, and ageing potential.
These traits are embodied in the wines of Quinta da Alameda. Each bottle encapsulates the rugged beauty of the landscape and centuries-old winemaking traditions.
Soil is the first, and perhaps the most important, element of terroir. It dictates drainage, the stress vines endure, and how they absorb nutrients.
From limestone to clay, volcanic to granite, soils can have a profound impact on the fundamental attributes of wine.
However, the relationship between soil type and wine characteristics is complex and widely debated.
Those who believe that soil influences a wine's sensory profile typically describe the relationships as follows.
Limestone soils are known for imparting acidity and freshness to wines. In cooler regions, these wines tend to exhibit deeper colours and a higher concentration of tannins.
Burgundy and Champagne are notable regions with limestone soils.
Clay soils retain water well and are often associated with fuller-bodied wines. These wines tend to be robust and opulent, with intense tannins and pronounced flavours.
Clay soils can be found in places like Pomerol in Bordeaux or Rioja in Spain.
Sandy soils, with their excellent drainage, compel vines to focus their energy on producing smaller, more concentrated grapes. These wines are typically lighter in colour, with low tannins, delicate aromas, and less body.
Barolo in Italy or Médoc in France are regions with sandy soils.
Volcanic soils often yield wines with a distinctive, salty sweetness and flinty or smoky notes. Like sandy soils, these soils also force vines to produce smaller grapes.
Santorini in Greece or the remarkable Pico in the Azores are examples of regions with volcanic soils.
Shale and slate soils tend to produce opulent, well-structured wines with intense flavours and floral or spicy aromas.
The Douro in Portugal and Priorat in Catalonia are famous for their shale and slate soils.
Granite soils, like those at Quinta da Alameda, require vines to dig deep to find water and nutrients. Their poor fertility is essential to wine quality. These wines are elegant and fresh, with complex flavours, vibrant acidity, and notable minerality. Many are celebrated for their precision and finesse.
Besides the Dão, granite soils can also be found in Beaujolais or the Rhône Valley in France.
Climate acts as the vineyard’s conductor, orchestrating the rhythm of the seasons and harvests.
The amount of sunlight, temperature fluctuations, and rainfall directly influence grape ripening, sugar concentration, and the balance between flavour and acidity.
In warmer regions, such as the Algarve or parts of California, grapes ripen more quickly. This results in fuller-bodied wines, lower acidity, higher alcohol content, and often flavours of ripe fruit.
Higher average temperatures can also lead to less refined tannins in red wines.
In cooler regions, like Burgundy or New Zealand, wines display higher acidity, more subtle flavours, and lower alcohol content.
Such regions favour grape varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which thrive in cooler temperatures.
The Dão region benefits from a unique microclimate created by the surrounding mountains.
This region also enjoys a broader climate influenced by both the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Iberian landmass to the east. Dão’s significant daily temperature swings allow grapes to ripen slowly while maintaining their natural acidity.
Topography is the third pillar of terroir. The elevation of a vineyard, the slope of the terrain, and its sun exposure all contribute to how grapes grow and ripen.
Vines planted at higher elevations benefit from cooler temperatures throughout the year, which contributes to a slower, more measured ripening process.
This gradual ripening results in wines with more complex flavours and higher acidity, as seen in the Dão.
In this region, vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 700 meters above sea level.
The angle of the slopes also affects the amount of sunlight the vines receive. South-facing slopes, for instance, get more direct sunlight and ripen faster.
In contrast, north-facing slopes tend to produce more delicate wines. Finally, steeper slopes provide better drainage for the vines.
The broad climates discussed above are not the only ones that shape terroir.
In fact, within a single vineyard, multiple microclimates can exist, creating subtle variations in the grapes.
Microclimates are localized climates contained within a restricted area. They are affected by the slope and orientation of the land, forests, and even nearby bodies of water.
These small climate shifts lead to wines made from the same grape variety, grown in the same vineyard, and on the same type of soil, to have surprisingly different flavours.
Until now, we’ve only discussed the ‘non-living’ ingredients of terroir — these are technically known as ‘abiotic’ factors.
But living organisms also play a fundamental role in terroir.
Beyond making vineyards more or less prone to pests and diseases, the ecosystem surrounding the vines directly influences the fertility of the terroir and the sensory profile of the wines it produces.
These living organisms include fungi (beneficial or otherwise), the flora that grows in and around the vineyard, the fauna that populates it, and the microorganisms that live in the soil, on the vines, and on the grapes.
Today, we know that biodiversity is a key factor in enhancing the terroir of a vineyard.
A biologically diverse vineyard, such as that of Quinta da Alameda (image above), is not only healthier but also more resilient and visually stunning.
The variety of living organisms supports a complex network that helps regulate the vineyard’s habitat without the need for heavy interventions.
The plants growing within and around a vineyard may seem secondary to the vines. But that’s far from true.
Plants help maintain healthy soil, control erosion, provide texture to the substrate, and manage water distribution and availability.
All of this shapes the quality of the grapes and the wine.
Savvy winemakers actively preserve specific plant species to enrich the soil and promote biodiversity. This is exactly what we do at Quinta da Alameda.
Native plants influence how vines absorb nutrients and may even contribute to the structure, minerality, and aromatic compounds of the resulting wine.
The aromas and flavours of the wine are thus a direct expression of the living environment surrounding the vines.
In the Dão, native flora, including beautiful strawberry trees and majestic oaks, create an environment that harmonizes with the vineyards. After all, these vines have grown for millennia alongside certain plant species that could be considered their companions and protectors.
The role of fauna in shaping terroir is less obvious but equally important.
Certain insects, especially those that are natural predators of vineyard pests, have a significant impact on long-term vine health.
Examples include ladybugs, dragonflies, and praying mantises. Among birds, insectivores like robins and tits stand out.
The blue tit, in particular, is perhaps the greatest destroyer of aphids and mealybugs that afflict many vineyards.
Birds also help with seed dispersal and the spread of native flora.
The presence of these animals reduces the need for pesticides and allows vines to thrive in a healthier environment.
And of course, we should never overlook the essential role of pollinators such as bees and butterflies.
Directly or indirectly, all these animals influence the expressiveness of terroir.
The least visible or often forgotten organisms — fungi, bacteria, and yeasts — can make or break vine health.
Moreover, through fermentation, they leave their mark on the flavour, aroma, texture, and other attributes of the wines.
Both above and below the surface, a community of microorganisms interacts with the vines, breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to the plants.
The composition of these microbial communities varies from vineyard to vineyard, contributing to the unique character of the soil and, by extension, the grapes that grow in it.
In the Dão, for example, microbial communities thriving in infertile, rocky conditions help vines extract water and nutrients from the soils. Such interactions can shape the wine’s mineral content, acidity, and even its overall complexity.
These communities differ from vineyard to vineyard, even within the same region. This suggests that microbial diversity is a key element of terroir.
By promoting healthy microbial populations through sustainable practices, winemakers can enhance the natural expression of the land in their wines.
Terroir is the dynamic, living medium where wines are born. The vines that produce them do not exist in isolation — they are part of a larger whole where the natural and cultural spheres intersect to form the individuality of a wine.
This is what makes terroir such a complex and captivating concept.
So, the next time you walk through a vineyard, look around and try to sense the intricate, invisible dance between nature and human hands.
Let’s just hope it doesn’t rain.